Front trans mount replace for 3800 SC
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07-21-2007 | 03:52 AM
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Front trans mount replace for 3800 SC
I just replaced my leaky front trans mount last night on my 01 SSEi. (might also work for all3800 set ups?) I def wasnt gonna shell out the cash for a stocker oil filled, so the solid mount was it. I read all the pros and cons (well really only one con, the lil vibration you get) and wanted to find a middle ground. I work for a company that builds hydraulic power units. And some electric motors we use can create vibrations that customers dont wanna here or feel when they walk by the machine, so we use these vibration bars....
this is a 4"(L) by 3 1/2"(W) piece I cut off a bigger piece. I need to grind the bracket a little bit so I can square up the mount with the car, I'll do that when I change out the bolt for one an inch longer, needs to be 7" or longer(the nut is on there...it is.... with lock wash and loctite...plus it started to rain...ugh)
The block is made up of 2 pieces of 1/4" x 3 1/2" flat stock glued,or however you permantly bond rubber to metal, to a 3 1/2" sqre piece of industrial rubber. We get em in varying lengths but I cut off a 4 inch chunk.(seemed stout enough). I rattle canned it flat black for rusts sake, so its hard to see the diff parts.
Here is a video of the rubber-isness of the middle. Im pushing pretty hard and I dont have chicken arms..
http://s182.photobucket.com/albums/x...t=45dc881a.flv
Just replace as you would with the hocky pucks and tighten her down
Here is video of before with leaky mount..
http://s182.photobucket.com/albums/x...t=79020f32.flv
and after with the new and improved mount...
http://s182.photobucket.com/albums/x...t=79e059b9.flv
The only vibration I get is like when you upshift a man trans and the revs are too low and it gets that low frequency vibe until it gets up to speed. It only does it in overdrive while in town, I just shift the trans down to third like you should for in town anyways.
One part that might be a problem is a tube behind the mount that touches it but a lil spin or a 3 1/2" chuck would solve that problem...
No more rubber band effect when the trans shifts and it feels more like a car when you can feel things more with a solid mount, plus it put the torque down better!!!!!
this is a 4"(L) by 3 1/2"(W) piece I cut off a bigger piece. I need to grind the bracket a little bit so I can square up the mount with the car, I'll do that when I change out the bolt for one an inch longer, needs to be 7" or longer(the nut is on there...it is.... with lock wash and loctite...plus it started to rain...ugh)
The block is made up of 2 pieces of 1/4" x 3 1/2" flat stock glued,or however you permantly bond rubber to metal, to a 3 1/2" sqre piece of industrial rubber. We get em in varying lengths but I cut off a 4 inch chunk.(seemed stout enough). I rattle canned it flat black for rusts sake, so its hard to see the diff parts.
Here is a video of the rubber-isness of the middle. Im pushing pretty hard and I dont have chicken arms..
http://s182.photobucket.com/albums/x...t=45dc881a.flv
Just replace as you would with the hocky pucks and tighten her down
Here is video of before with leaky mount..
http://s182.photobucket.com/albums/x...t=79020f32.flv
and after with the new and improved mount...
http://s182.photobucket.com/albums/x...t=79e059b9.flv
The only vibration I get is like when you upshift a man trans and the revs are too low and it gets that low frequency vibe until it gets up to speed. It only does it in overdrive while in town, I just shift the trans down to third like you should for in town anyways.
One part that might be a problem is a tube behind the mount that touches it but a lil spin or a 3 1/2" chuck would solve that problem...
No more rubber band effect when the trans shifts and it feels more like a car when you can feel things more with a solid mount, plus it put the torque down better!!!!!
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