power windows
#1
power windows
I have a 1995 formula and the power windows dont work. Is there a good way to find out if its the switch or the regulator. I know you can use a meter but I dont know the setting to use or how to check it any input would help its getting hot here.
#4
RE: power windows
If the window got slow and weak, it's probably the motor. If it's both windows, it's likely the switch.
At that age though, it could be either. I did learn on mine the passenger switch works off the driver side so if everything failed, there you go...
Do yourself a favor... If it turns out to be the motors, get the ones with the lifetime warranty and keep the receipt. I've put 3 motors in my door.
I removed the motor in the driver door. The curve of the window keeps it up and the window / track is balanced well enough that the window stays where I put it.
About the volt-ohm meter. If you have one good, if not, don't spend more than a $15 on one. You don't need anything fancy.
To use it, (basically)...
Set it to the DCV (direct current / volts) setting in the range of 20.
Touch the black lead to metal somewhere / somehow. take the red and probe the first of the wires on the motor. as you are doing so hit the switch both directions. If you see the meter jump from 0 to 10-12 or so, that side of the switch is fine.
Repeat for the other wires. there are no worries of shorts with this method. if you see no readings. the switch is dead.
Good Luck!
At that age though, it could be either. I did learn on mine the passenger switch works off the driver side so if everything failed, there you go...
Do yourself a favor... If it turns out to be the motors, get the ones with the lifetime warranty and keep the receipt. I've put 3 motors in my door.
I removed the motor in the driver door. The curve of the window keeps it up and the window / track is balanced well enough that the window stays where I put it.
About the volt-ohm meter. If you have one good, if not, don't spend more than a $15 on one. You don't need anything fancy.
To use it, (basically)...
Set it to the DCV (direct current / volts) setting in the range of 20.
Touch the black lead to metal somewhere / somehow. take the red and probe the first of the wires on the motor. as you are doing so hit the switch both directions. If you see the meter jump from 0 to 10-12 or so, that side of the switch is fine.
Repeat for the other wires. there are no worries of shorts with this method. if you see no readings. the switch is dead.
Good Luck!
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daniel85
Front Wheel Drive 1988-2008
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05-24-2007 09:37 AM